The Land, the Yoga, the Self
Meanderings through Morocco, one Om at a time.
Bit of a long one today, so if it gets cut off in your email inbox, click through to read online here.
🧭
Namaste.
As regular readers will know, this month I’ve been on a yoga retreat, flying solo, as a gift to myself on turning the big 3-0 this year.
I’ll not exaggerate the experience by telling you I found a previously unknown sense of peace, or that of a higher power, but I will tell you it was an incredible week in so many ways and one that I would wholeheartedly recommend.
And so here I am to delve into the before, during, and after of the trip, sharing the practical along with the personal, in case it may inspire a trip of your own - or, just provides a nice escapist read for your Sunday.
💻 Before
As I’ve been telling people these past few months about my plan for the trip, the first thing everyone asks is, how did you find it?
This could be (and in my first draft, was) an essay in itself, but let me cut to the chase.
I started by Googling variations of retreats in different countries, mainly in Europe, and also browsed Substack to recall recommendations from
(here) and (here). I sought advice from yoga teacher friend Ellie, and a Spain-based yoga teacher I had previously connected with, Rachael Burns.But nothing was quite landing that met my interests and aligned timing wise, financially etc…
Then on a weekend in Devon with friends, chatting about my search, Charlotte’s boyfriend mentioned a great surf retreat he’d been on in Morocco, where yoga was also a focus. I’d visited the country before, but it hadn’t crossed my mind to explore for a yoga retreat.
And that is why, people, we mustn’t be afraid to speak of our dreams aloud, because we never known who is going to help us get there.
I searched for offerings in Morocco on BookYogaRetreats.com and it didn’t take long before I came across La Vida Surf. I felt like I’d hit the jackpot. The outline of the retreat ticked all my boxes, the dates could work, and, compared to European counterparts, a room of one’s own (rather than sharing with a few other guests) was affordable.
A bit more searching showed that nothing else compared.
I’d found the one.
I connected directly with the manager, Elena, through the website, asked a couple of questions, and a few days later confirmed the booking. I had felt a little nervous, but once it was complete, I knew it was the right decision.
As a note, though the name suggests the retreat is surf-focused, it’s more of a legacy from retreats they ran at another outpost in Morocco’s Tagazhout. Surfing is an option as part of this experience (more on this later) but the core of the retreat is yoga-focused.
In the lead up I didn’t do too much more research, wanting to go without any pre-conceptions or expectations, but communications from Elena were great, and a week or so before, there was some action in a WhatsApp group with the other guests for our trip, which was a nice pre-welcome.
I did however do a bit of personal reflection and journalling on what I was hoping to take from the trip; how I wanted to make the most of it. That evolved during my stay, but I’m glad I had put some thought into it.
Ironically, in the weeks leading up to my departure, work turned into a chaotic mess with several urgent/important things popping up that need dealing with ASAP, and I had an iron infusion scheduled in two days before leaving - which went fine, apart from me fainting before it had even started… but that’s a story for another time.
Safe to say, by the time the trip came around, I was VERY ready to get on that plane…
🌄 During
… And get on the plane I did, relatively smoothly, but then for various reasons we sat on the runway for a good two hours before even taking off. Luckily I had a plethora of reading material to keep me occupied, and so to stave off any annoyance, dived into
’s Big Magic, which I’d been saving for the trip.Upon landing, and finally getting through the long queue at passport control (note to those travelling to Morocco - it’s a good idea to have the address of your accommodation handy, as the staff were keen to note this before stamping through new arrivals) I was incredibly grateful to see my driver, arranged by the retreat team, waiting to take me from Marrakech airport to Ounagha, in the Essaouira province. A long drive late at night, and I wished I’d brushed up on some of my KS3 French in order to be a more effective communicator, but we got by with universal hand gestures and the odd ça va.
Finally arriving in Ounagha, at the La Vida Surf riad, after midnight, I was greeted by the guardian of the property who showed me to my room, and then ushered me to the kitchen where there was a dinner plate saved for me from earlier in the evening, as I’d arrived later than other guests. I was too tired to eat much, but a few mouthfuls gave me a taste of the deliciousness to come through the week.
Up early the next morning for a conscious walk in the surrounding hills, I emerged slightly bleary eyed to meet the other guests and hosts for the first time. I was grateful for the offering of both tea and coffee before we set off (available to help yourself all day, everyday) as well as fruit (grapes, bananas, and the best dates you’ll ever taste) which was laid out every morning. As we walked, we talked, getting to know snippets of each other, but mainly taking in the serenity of the morning hike with incredible views and a soundtrack of birds.
As we reached somewhat of a peak, we were invited by Wendy, who, along with Mohammad, led us on the hike, to take a seat on the ground, ready for a meditation. Despite being a bit of a fussy one, not really accustomed to sitting on the ground without a blanket of some sort, which my shoes wouldn’t be allowed to touch, and having a bunch of rules on inside/outside clothes, I knew in that moment there would be no space for such fussiness during this trip, and I needed to embrace it. The dusty sand from the dry land would become a staple accessory to my yoga leggings and my footprints, and I really tried to lean into that through the week.
Going with the flow, and being at one with nature, if you will.
The morning outing also involved some intention setting, mandala art (which I’ve since gone down a Google rabbit hole about), and silent reflection on the walk back. By the time we arrived at the riad for breakfast, I could feel myself settling in.
After we’d been fed and, to varying degrees, caffeinated (the tea/coffee chat was prevalent through the week), the hosts led us in an opening circle. I’ll not say too much about what was involved, as I think it’s a unique experience to embrace and will likely differ depending on the group you’re with. But I will say there was expertly-poured Moroccan tea (take it with sugar), a chance to be introduced in a new way, and Oracle cards.
The afternoon featured a delicious lunch and slow downtime, which for me meant reading on a sun lounger and a dip in the pool, before the yin yoga class that would become the staple of early evenings.
As this was the first yoga class we were all at together, Brigita, a wonderful and welcoming teacher, prompted us to dive into a bit of journalling, which would typically be the way the morning hatha yoga classes started through the rest of the week. As a keen journaller, the fact this was part of the retreat was one of the reasons it ticked my boxes. I enjoyed the opportunity to explore through words what I would then explore through my body, as each day Bri taught us more about chakras and how these relate to our thoughts, feelings and actions in day-to-day life.
It’s been a while since I was regularly in yoga studio classes, and so being in the presence of a teacher again felt really special. Helped by the fact we were a small group of six (though the retreat can take up to twelve), Bri’s teaching was warmly attentive, often providing personalised recommendations for each movement or stretch. Everyone there had some experience of yoga, but though this experience varied a lot, the classes were accessible for all, as well as providing challenge. I even managed to get into a headstand for the first time, albeit for a split second, with Bri’s encouragement and support.
I started practicing at the age of 10 (I know!) thanks to a very cool primary school teacher who was a yogi on the side, and introduced after school classes once a week. Even at that age I connected to the sun salutations and, of course, savasana, and I still have my yoga mat from all those years ago. I’ve always tried to keep a regular practice but it does come and go as life gets in the way (or, I let it get in the way). I’d probably never done as much yoga as during this week, with morning sessions lasting 2-2.5 hours (including breathwork and journalling) and evening sessions 1.5-2 hours. By day two I could feel my body start to ache, but in a good way; as though it was trying to undo the copious amount of hours I’d spent in the lead up hunched over a laptop with little movement other than to get more coffee or snacks.
Speaking of which, I didn’t snack at all during the trip - quite a revelation for me. With three generous and delicious meals a day, ranging from smoothie bowls to avocado toast in the morning - along with everyone’s new favourite spread, amlou - to lunchtime salads with interesting hummus and freshly made flatbreads, to evening tagines, soups, and mind blowing sauces with rice, there really just wasn’t the desire.
If you’re worried about a yoga retreat meaning a boring detox, I can assure you it is not that way at La Vida Surf. The portions are plentiful, mealtimes are regular, and there was dessert every night. All the food is vegetarian, but still packed with protein for those used to eating meat/fish, and the creativity of chef Mubarak and his team of three Mohammads in the kitchen (who also provided a musical surprise one night…) is something to marvel. There’s no alcohol, but when you’re arriving at the dinner table from rooftop sunset yoga, thoughts of that glass of wine to mellow out just do not occur.
Through the next few days, I comfortably fell into a new routine of hot drinks served from 6:45am before morning journalling and yoga, breakfast, then a new activity. Sometimes this was a workshop led by Wendy - one of which was a totally new experience for me, that got my brain in gear along with my body in a different way to yoga, while another sparked a reminder of how to relax creatively. Mid-way through the week there was an opportunity to leave the remoteness of the riad to explore Essaouira, try surfing or go horse-riding.
Me? I went to the spa - and honestly had quite possibly the best massage of my life.
I won’t pretend to be any sort of massage connoisseur, but I’ve had a fair few in my time, in a number of different countries, and it’s a treat I utterly relish. While a full body treatment usually starts with the back, then through the motions of arms and legs before flipping over, my therapist at Cocooning Spa in the medina of Essaouira started right down at the tip of my toes, with soothing and beautifully scented massage oil, before working up from the soles of my feet to the crown of my head. Even as I write I can feel the memory of the sensations easing the tension that’s crept back into my shoulders. If you’re in town, it’s not to be missed.
Afternoons meant reading and relaxing, before and after lunch, and for me soaking up every bit of sun I could catch on the poolside lounger. For those less keen on the rays, there was plenty of space in the communal areas of the cool riad to sit with a book, a journal - or your phone. While I tried to keep use of my device to a minimum during the week, there was no judgement for not wanting to disconnect here.
The 5:30pm yin yoga felt like a treat to get ready for, and the comforting use of bolsters and blocks has made me consider investing in my own, or at least using makeshift versions during my home practice. Afterwards, dinner was a casual affair, with yoga pants as welcome as summer dresses, and though there was an encouragement to be in silence for the rest of the evening after dinner was over, usually there would be some chat for a while before we each returned to our rooms.
I would end the evening by journalling through an account of the day, trying to savour every moment, every reflection. To help with this, I also carried around a small notebook where I’d jot down little notes of things I was observing in myself or my surroundings, or indeed in my reading. It was a nice way to be really present, and something I’m considering trying to incorporate more in daily life.
The final full day involved a closing circle, in some ways mirroring the opening circle, but with more reflections on our journey through the week. Personally, I realised I had put too much pressure on myself to use the time away, the break from routine, to think through several things I am pondering in different areas of life. I had ambitiously thought I might come back with answers, or clarity, across each of them. But earlier in the week I understood that such pressure was not going to help me get the most from the experience, and instead I needed to use the time and space to just be present with what it offered, and trust the rest would fall into place in good time.
Even retreat-me had a list, and it had to go out the window.
That afternoon we headed into Essaouira to explore the souks (and, okay, I took a shopping list) before dinner at a cosy local restaurant, and a wander around the food stalls at night to sample some sweet treats.
The final morning yoga session was led by Wendy, with more of a focus on meditation, inviting us to really embrace and embed our takeaways from the week. Her soothing tones helped my focus, as meditation, especially unguided, is something I struggle with.
After breakfast, and zipping up the suitcase, I travelled back to Marrakech with a few new friends for a lovely final lunch before heading to the airport.
I felt I could have done with a few more days of the La Vida Surf magic, but alas, all good things come to an end.
On the plane journey back, I was grateful for the solace to journal further on my reflections over where I was at on those niggling thoughts I’d been so keen to ponder, and draw my own conclusions, through words, on what I was taking away, and what I wanted to embed.
Then, after much thinking, searching, reflecting, I was glad to get out of my head and read the as-yet-untouched issue of Red magazine I’d been carrying around, cover to cover. Slowly bringing myself back to the familiarity of my London life.
🏠After
So, what am I bringing back with me?
Work has already been a real test this week of my ability to retain a level of calm, and even remember to breathe - let alone maintain good belly breath! But I am returning with a refreshed mindset, albeit yet again, that work is not the be all and end all. I care about my job. I care about being good at it. I want to do well, for myself, and my team. But if something doesn’t get done before COP, I don’t have to push myself to work through the evening. It can wait until tomorrow. If that means further delays, so be it.
I need to learn to let go.
I also brought back a renewed intention, and I guess commitment, to really look after my body, physically and mentally. Although I envisaged recreating all the spectacular dishes I indulged in through the trip, in reality that it not going to happen every day, or even several times a week. But there are a few things I am trying out to build a better routine, helped in part by a practical journalling activity Brigita shared with us one morning on the retreat. Perhaps as I learn more about what works for me, I’ll share more with you here.
I’m also keen to continue my education on yoga, chakras, and even breathing. I’ve returned with documentary recommendations, a collection of open tabs on my phone from things I wanted to remember to look up, and I’ve pulled out The Yoga Deck which has sat on my bookshelf for years but hasn’t been looked at for a long time.
Big Magic - we haven’t even covered this! What I’ll tell you is that I read it twice, the second time taking notes, and while I didn’t exactly find it an earth-shattering wake-up call, I did find the storytelling of what an idea is, and how we may or may not choose to do something with it, a helpful way to think about creativity, in various forms. I can see why people re-read it, and felt the notion of it being one long permission slip, whether we needed it or not, to go forth and create (but, crucially, not always rely on making money from those creations!). No doubt a worthwhile read for anyone interested in blue-sky thinking (especially if you can in fact read it under a beautiful blue sky).
Back to the land, and a metaphor of sorts I observed during my stay. The patch of land surrounding La Vida Surf’s riad and pool area is luscious; the grass is green, the flowers bloom. Indeed you feel you are surrounded by la vida. Outside the retreat walls however, the land is dry and arid, not in an ugly way, but in a way that reflects nature and the lack of rain water that falls over the soils. What the guardians of the retreat location have done, therefore, is to take care of their patch. Focus on what can be done, what can be nurtured, and grown; tending to what can realistically be tended. And it shows. It is wonderful and welcoming; healthy and sharing happiness.
What I’m taking from that is a reminder to focus on looking after my own patch, knowing I can do some, but not all. And that’s okay. The some will be better for it.
Among so much more, which I know I’m still digesting, I have a whole load of gratitude to the team at La Vida Surf for creating such a serene retreat space, and to my fellow retreat guests for adding to the experience in a unique way.
If you’re interested in knowing more about this retreat, finding your own yoga retreat, or other solo travel experiences, have any yoga education recommendations, or anything else you’d like to share, I’d love to hear from you in the comments!
Appreciate this has been a long one, so thanks for reading through until the end. 🧘🏻♀️
Namaste.
If you liked this piece and would like to show some support without a paid subscription, a Ko-fi coffee is always appreciated.☕
Thanks once again to Claire Venus and all taking part in the Sparkle on Substack 24 Essays Club for the encouragement to write with an open heart and mind.
Loved reading this Lauren, it sounds so wonderful and such an amazing thing to experience!
Also, Big Magic is incredible - one of my favourites for sure x
It sounds so good. I was supposed to go on a writers retreat this week but it's been cancelled.