Meanderings Through Stockholm
Finding headspace and learning from the Swedes.
As hinted at in a recent Cultural Compass issue, last month I had a weekend trip away - to a surprisingly sunny Sweden. With forecasts in the weeks prior showing snow and temperatures far below zero, I was in a bit of a panic over an appropriate wedding guest outfit to celebrate a lovely couple’s big day, in what could have been a blizzard. As luck had it, temperatures crept up over freezing point, and as though she knew there were toasts to be made and sightseeing to be done, Mother Nature painted the skies blue and brought the sun out to shine.
I’m not here to talk to you just about the weather - though it does have a massive impact on our mood, doesn’t it? But this meanderings post, like others, will draw on elements of the trip in a way that reflects the themes we explore here; of navigating life. The weather is indeed one of them, but to share the little nuggets of gold that I mined from this quick jaunt, a mere Friday to Monday affair, I’ve compiled a bit of a list.
In no particular order, and not necessarily exhaustive, a list of things I enjoyed, savoured, learnt, appreciated, and perhaps want more of. Things that the Swedes do right. Things we can get from a mini break. Things we can perhaps try to embed more in our typical day-to-day, however unlikely it may currently seem.
So, here we go…
1. Back to Basics
While I was grateful to not face a weekend of meandering in minus ten, in hindsight it may not have been all that bad. Why? Because every building, room, cafe, restaurant, shop, museum, was well insulated. Not once did I feel a draft. Never did I feel the need to pull my scarf close to my neck as I sipped a coffee. The fluffy bolero I trawled the internet for to complete my winter wedding look even had me too cosy at times, such was the quality of heating at the venue.
While back in London I battle with mould as I try to heat my home and (perish the thought) dry the laundry, I long for the thick walls and well-fitted doors that work hard to discourage humidity while keeping in the heat.
Who’d have thought I’d ever be writing about construction here? Wonders never cease.
2. The Aesthetics
We know the Scandis have style, and taste. Look no further than Ganni, Acne, and, well, IKEA, even H&M, for how that influence has spread. They demonstrate that the devil is in the detail, and no moment is missed to strategically, yet effortlessly, place candles in perfect places, and decorate unassuming corners with flowers and foliage that add something special to the otherwise perhaps mundane. The quiet luxury of a cloth napkin instead of paper, even at breakfast, of low lighting instead of a white glare, really can elevate everyday experiences.
3. Money, Money, Money….
…. is nowhere to be found in this town! I am pretty old school when it comes to travelling abroad. I like to take a set amount of cash, pre-allocated as my spending money, which I will have picked up at a bureau de change having duly queued up on my lunch break. I like to see the money in my purse, look at the different markings and signs of a foreign currency, and enjoy dishing it out at gift shops and bars as though I am playing Monopoly.
Save for one exciting cove of a souvenir shop which did accept cash, this trip was a card-only affair, which left my partner to be tap-happy while I tried to tot it all up ready to work out at the end of the weekend. I had done my research so knew in advance that it was pretty much a cashless city, but I still took some in hope. I also didn’t have a snazzy card to allow me to easily spend abroad, which has now been rectified as I’ve had to admit defeat and begin to prepare for moving along with the times.
But I will still be making a visit to the bureau de change before my next trip abroad. It’s part of the magic. Surely I’m not the only one who still does this?
4. Buns
Cinnamon. Cardamom. A mix of the two. This city did not let me down when it came to my favourite choice of breakfast pastry (closely followed by an almond croissant). However, we stayed at the lovely Hotel Skeppsholmen with breakfast included - which was a real treat with an exceptional selection of delicious fares on offer. It did then mean though less room for fika through the day, as we walked off our seven course breakfast of champions.
But the buns are everywhere, calling to be devoured. As much as I would wholeheartedly recommend this particular hotel breakfast - which you can visit solely for the food, should you wish to stay elsewhere - I would advise keeping in mind the ample cafes you will also want to nibble at.
Don’t even get me started on the prinsesstårta.
5. Feet vs Wheels
Enjoying a coffee and cinnamon bun is very much in my comfort zone. My happy place, if you will.
Riding an electric scooter, or frankly anything with wheels, is not. I like to walk. I like to rely on my legs and feet to get me from A to B, unless I need to get in a vehicle (not on) to get me there.
Electric scooters seemed pretty popular in Stockholm. “Let’s get them together,” my partner said. “Live like the locals,” he said. “It’ll be fun,” he said.
Having geared up with the breakfast of champions, and slept off the wedding prosecco, I gave in and agreed to give it go.
And promptly got back off.
A few attempts up and down the path at the hotel before venturing into the city was enough for me to know it wasn’t for me. Not today. Likely not ever.
But I tried, and sometimes that’s enough, right?
6. Inner Complexities
I am not a royalist. I don’t really get the concept of a monarchy, or why it’s still a thing that we all go along with like it’s totally normal and fine to have people with varying levels of ruling power all over the world, purely based on their … bloodline? But I digress, this is not a political rant (and yes, I know there are nuances and legacy economic considerations and what not). This is to say that I feel all these things, yet also fell head over heels for the crown jewels on display at The Royal Palace.
The combination of the glowing pearls against the rich blue. Even the sword handles caught my eye, as I thought about how they might be refashioned into chunky hair grips. The opulence of all that gold. As I gawked in appreciation, I chastised myself silently.
Wouldn’t it be great if we could sometimes just acknowledge our inner complexities and ironies, and move on?
7. Inspiring Art
Is there a difference between admiring the art of an intricately bejewelled crown, versus a painting, or sculpture? Is it only about what it represents, or can we look beyond that to allow ourselves to appreciate the object for the work that has gone in to make it so appealing?
I’m not sure; sometimes maybe yes, sometimes maybe no.
At the Nationalmuseum I found myself drawn to quite particular pieces of art, less taken by the landscapes and the nobles, and more by what I saw to be representations of interesting women, or pieces with eye-catching shades of blue, which, though by no means an art critic, I tend to always feel compelled by.
I do spend time in galleries and museums when at home in the UK, mainly London, but I wonder if there’s something about wandering around one that you know you can’t just visit again next week, or next month, that lets us see and appreciate things differently? Indeed perhaps inspire in a way that can only happen when we think this might be our only chance to breathe it in?
8. Headspace
Whether it was the calming effect of a city surrounded by water, the sun streaming through the windows lighting up the fresh white walls of the hotel room each morning, or just the change of routine from the daily humdrum, there was something about this weekend away that seemed to open hearts and minds. Over the course of the weekend, in drips and drabs and without any agenda, my partner and I dived into some pretty hefty conversations around THE BIG STUFF.
Pondering what we want from life, over a cappuccino or two. Discussing hopes and dreams, accompanied by meatballs and wine. Slow mornings getting ready, knowing the divine breakfast awaited downstairs, there was something about the trip that ignited curious conversations.
It’s not that we never discuss these things in ‘real life’, but with often conflicting work and social schedules, and dedicating time to our respective interests and passions, rarely is there an obvious moment to dive into these sorts of chats; the kind that you need the time and space to chew the fat on, and not squeeze into 30 minute pockets of time when you’re ships passing in the night.
A bonus then, to return to London feeling more connected, and a reminder to try to find more time for that opportunity to connect within the regular rhythms of how we live.
9. When Sunday Becomes the New Saturday
With Monday booked off work to accommodate the journey back, waking up on Sunday morning brought a luxurious sense of time stretching out ahead. No ‘Sunday scaries’ looming, but rather two full days before a return to an overflowing inbox. The sense of a long weekend is indeed not to be shunned if those extra days off fall on a Friday, or even a Thursday. But there’s something special about no-work Mondays that turn Sundays into Saturdays, providing an extra ounce of delight.
Of course, this can be found without the excuse of a flight to catch. A few weeks after this trip, I once again had a Monday booked off, to celebrate my mother’s birthday. As I sat on the train home on a Sunday morning, having been at a friend’s birthday drinks the night before, feeling the flakes of an almond croissant around my lips and quietly wishing I’d instead opted for a more-hangover-friendly bacon sandwich, I sank into the pleasure of sensing that my weekend still had two full days to go.
But do we have to use up precious annual leave for our Sundays to feel this way? Could we bask in such delight as we try to make the most of the approximately 16 waking hours we might have anyway?
Is there anything you might do differently today, to really get the most out of your Sunday?
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That food pic looks DIVINE!!!